What to do once you land inAmalfi CoastFind your bearings
The Amalfi Coast is a 50km stretch of Italian coastline where colorful villages cling to sheer cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea. Each town has its own personality: Positano is glamorous, Amalfi is historic, Ravello is refined, and the smaller towns between them hold the real magic. The winding coastal road is legendary (and terrifying), but SITA buses and ferries connect everything.
Neighborhoods
Positano — The glamorous poster town: pastel buildings cascading down cliffs, designer boutiques, beach clubs, and the most Instagrammed views on the coast
Amalfi Town — The historic heart with its 9th-century cathedral, paper-making history, bustling piazza, and connections to every other town
Ravello — Hilltop garden town 1,000 feet above the sea. Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone have some of the finest views in Italy
Praiano — The quieter alternative between Positano and Amalfi. Local feel, stunning sunset views, and the Path of the Gods trailhead
Atrani — Italy's smallest municipality, tucked behind Amalfi town. A genuine fishing village with a piazza on the beach and no tourist buses
Best time to visit
May through June and September through mid-October for warm weather, swimming, and manageable crowds. July and August are brutally crowded and hot. Many restaurants close November through March.
Getting around
SITA buses run the coastal road for about $2. They're packed in summer sit on the right side heading east for cliff views
Ferries connect Positano, Amalfi, Minori, and Salerno from April through October. Scenic and avoids the road entirely
Don't rent a car. The road is single-lane in places, parking is $30 to $50/day, and the stress isn't worth it
Walk between close towns via staircase paths. Atrani to Amalfi is 5 minutes on foot through a sea-arch tunnel
Key areas
PositanoAmalfiRavelloPraianoAtrani
Zero-dollar wins
1
Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)Legendary clifftop hike from Bomerano to Nocelle with 360-degree coastal views. Free, 4 miles, and genuinely breathtaking
2
Atrani village and beachWalk through the sea-arch from Amalfi to discover this tiny fishing village with a free pebbly beach and no cruise-ship crowds
3
Ravello's Villa Cimbrone gardensThe Terrace of Infinity viewpoint is worth the $10 entry but wandering Ravello's quiet lanes and viewpoints is free
4
Amalfi Cathedral exterior and piazzaThe striped 9th-century cathedral dominates the main square. The facade and stairs are stunning (interior is $3)
5
Lemon grove walksTerraced lemon groves line the hillsides everywhere. Walk the ancient paths between towns and smell the citrus. Completely free
6
Fiordo di FuroreA dramatic narrow fjord between two cliffs with a tiny beach at the bottom. Hidden, free, and one of Italy's most unique spots
7
Valle delle Ferriere nature walkHike into the valley behind Amalfi through ancient paper mills and subtropical vegetation with waterfalls
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Da Adolfo$60 to $100
Beach restaurant in Positano accessible only by boat. Grilled fish on the pebbles with your feet in the Med. Reserve days aheadRossellinis (Palazzo Avino)$150 to $250
Two Michelin-star restaurant in Ravello with panoramic sea views and a creative Southern Italian tasting menuPrivate boat tour to Capri$200 to $400
Charter a gozzo boat from Positano to Capri via grottoes, swimming spots, and Faraglioni rocks. Full day with skipperLe Sirenuse terrace dinner$100 to $180
Champagne and seafood on Positano's most famous hotel terrace with the village lit up below youThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Da Vincenzo$25 to $45
Family trattoria in Positano that hasn't changed in decades. Nonna still makes the pasta. Locals and in-the-know tourists onlyScialatielli ai frutti di mare (fresh pasta with mixed seafood)Il Pirata$30 to $50
Praiano fish restaurant on a cliffside terrace. The seafood antipasto platter is a meal in itself and the views are commandingMixed seafood antipasto with local anchovies and raw prawnsTrattoria da Gemma$30 to $55
Amalfi institution since 1872. Four generations of the same family serving coastal classics in a vaulted dining roomZuppa di pesce (fish soup with saffron broth and crusty bread)Le Arcate$10 to $18
Hidden pizza spot in Atrani, right on the beach piazza. Some of the best Neapolitan-style pizza on the coastPizza margherita with local mozzarella di bufalaCumpa Cosimo$20 to $40
Ravello legend run by Netta Bottone for 80+ years. Home-cooked multi-course lunches that feel like family dinnerMixed pasta plate (7 different pastas tossed together with ragú)Where locals eat
Where residents actually go
Andrea Pansa pastry shop$3 to $7
Amalfi's oldest pasticceria (since 1830) on the main piazza. Sfogliatella, delizia al limone, and espresso standing at the barLe Arcate$8 to $16
Atrani's beloved pizzeria right on the beach square. Locals eat here nightly wood-fired pizza and cold PeroniIl Buco di Bacco$8 to $15
Small sandwich and wine bar in Amalfi's backstreets. Panini with local salumi, fresh mozzarella, and a glass of Furore rosTrattoria San Gennaro$12 to $22
Hidden in Praiano's upper village, serving enormous portions of handmade pasta at prices that feel like a mistakeDa Maria Positano$12 to $20
Positano's locals' pizza spot tucked up in the residential streets. Cash only, paper-thin crust, genuine Neapolitan styleCumpa Cosimo$18 to $35
The Ravello institution where Netta feeds you until you beg her to stop. Seven-pasta plate is legendary and the price is honestGo off-script
1
Path of the Gods at sunriseMost people hike it midday. Start at Bomerano at 7am and have the cliffside trail completely to yourself with golden morning light over the sea
2
Limoncello making classSeveral family farms offer tours of their lemon terraces followed by a hands-on limoncello workshop. You'll taste the difference fresh lemons make
3
Kayak into sea cavesPaddle from Positano or Praiano into hidden grottoes and uninhabited beaches only accessible by water. The Emerald Grotto is the showpiece
4
Paper museum in AmalfiAmalfi was a medieval paper-making powerhouse. The Museo della Carta shows working 13th-century water-powered machines still producing handmade paper
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Stay in Atrani or Praiano instead of Positano half the price, more authentic, and you can bus or ferry to Positano in 10 minutes
- ✓Eat lunch as your big meal. Many restaurants offer the same menu at lunch for 30% less, plus better availability
- ✓Book Path of the Gods for early morning. By 11am in summer it's exposed, hot, and crowded with day-trippers
- ✓Buy a SITA bus pass if staying multiple days. Single tickets are fine but a pass saves hassle and money
“We based ourselves in Atrani for 4 nights at $90/night. Ate pizza on the beach every evening, took the ferry everywhere, and hiked the Path of the Gods. Best trip we've ever taken, spent almost nothing.”
Skip
- ✗Positano beach club chairs at $50+ per day: walk 5 minutes to the free section or take the boat to Da Adolfo instead
- ✗Tour bus excursions that stop 15 minutes in each town: you need at least a half-day per village. Stay overnight, don't day-trip from Naples
- ✗Restaurant touts on the Amalfi main drag: the best spots are one street back or uphill. If they're pulling you in, the food isn't pulling you in
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