What to do once you land inCartagenaFind your bearings
Cartagena is a walled colonial city on Colombia's Caribbean coast where bougainvillea spills over balconies, salsa music drifts from open doorways, and the seafood is extraordinary. The Old City (Centro) is UNESCO-listed and stunning, but Getseman next door has the nightlife, street art, and local energy. Beyond the walls, the Rosario Islands offer Caribbean beaches just an hour by boat.
Neighborhoods
Centro (Old City) — Walled colonial center with plazas, churches, boutique hotels, and upscale restaurants behind massive wooden doors
Getseman — Former working-class neighborhood now the creative heart. Street art, rooftop bars, hostels, and Plaza Trinidad's nightly street scene
Bocagrande — Modern high-rise beach strip south of the Old City. Local beach scene, ceviche vendors, and sunset views back toward the walls
La Boquilla — Afro-Colombian fishing village north of the city with mangrove kayaking, fresh seafood shacks, and zero tourists
Manga — Residential peninsula between Getseman and Bocagrande with Republican-era mansions, local bakeries, and waterfront sunsets away from crowds
Best time to visit
December through April for dry season and steady Caribbean breezes. November and May are shoulder months (brief rains, fewer crowds). June through October brings heavier rain but significant price drops and the city empties of tourists.
Getting around
Walk everywhere in the Old City and Getseman. Both neighborhoods are compact and exploring on foot reveals hidden plazas and street art
Uber doesn't officially operate but InDriver and DiDi work well. $2 to $4 for most trips within the city
Don't take taxis without agreeing on price first. From Old City to Bocagrande should be 10,000 to 15,000 COP (~$2.50 to $3.50)
Boats to Rosario Islands leave from the dock near the clock tower. Book direct with boatmen (cheaper) or through hotels (easier)
Key areas
Centro HistòricoGetsemanBocagrandeRosario IslandsLa Boquilla
Zero-dollar wins
1
City walls sunset walkWalk the ramparts at golden hour from Café del Mar to the Santo Domingo bastion. Free, stunning, and the best sunset spot in the city
2
Getseman street artSelf-guided mural walk through the neighborhood's alleys. Plaza Trinidad at night becomes an open-air party with locals dancing and street food
3
Plaza Santo Domingo people-watchingBotero's sculpture, live musicians, and the best people-watching in the Old City. Grab a cheap beer from a tienda and sit on the steps
4
Bocagrande beach (public)The beach is free, the ceviche vendors walk right to you ($3 to $5 portions), and the sunset views back toward the city walls are gorgeous
5
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas (exterior)Walk around the massive 17th-century fortress exterior for free. The underground tunnels inside cost 45,000 COP but the exterior views are equally impressive
6
La Boquilla mangrove walkFishing village locals offer $5 canoe rides through mangroves, or walk the shoreline free and watch fishermen haul in the morning catch
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Carmen Restaurant$60 to $100
Chef Rob Soberman's modern Colombian tasting menu in a restored Old City mansion. The ceviche flights and Caribbean lobster justify the splurgeRosario Islands private boat day$100 to $200 per group
Hire a private lancha to Isla Bar or Cholon (floating party island). Includes snorkeling, lunch on the island, and open bar on many boatsCafé Havana salsa night$30 to $60
The city's most famous salsa bar in Getseman with live Cuban bands. No cover most nights but drinks are premium. The dancing is electricSpa at Sofitel Legend Santa Clara$80 to $150
Spa in a converted 17th-century convent with stone arches and a pool in the former cloister. Colonial luxury at its finestThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
La Cevichería$12 to $22
Anthony Bourdain-approved ceviche spot in the Old City. Small, always packed, and their coconut ceviche is legendaryCeviche de pulpo en leche de cocoInterno$15 to $30
Restaurant staffed by inmates from the local women's prison as part of a rehabilitation program. Incredible story, incredible food, reserve aheadCaribbean seafood rice with coconutLa Cocina de Pepina$8 to $14
Afro-Colombian home cooking in Getseman. Doña Pepina's arroz con coco and fried fish plate is the city's soul on a plateFried fish with coconut rice and pataconesCelele$30 to $55
Modern Colombian restaurant exploring Caribbean coastal ingredients you've never heard of. Ambitious, creative, and worth every pesoSeasonal tasting menu featuring indigenous ingredientsEl Boliche Cebichera$10 to $18
Peruvian ceviche joint in Getseman with massive portions, cold beer, and a loyal local following. The leche de tigre shot cures everythingCeviche clsico with leche de tigre on the sideWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Arepa de huevo ladies (Getseman)$1 to $2
Street vendors frying arepas stuffed with egg every morning near Plaza Trinidad. $1 for breakfast perfection. Look for the longest linePortal de los Dulces$1 to $3
Archway in the Old City with women selling traditional sweets: cocadas (coconut candy), enyucados, and dulce de leche. $0.50 to $2 per pieceRestaurante Cand$3 to $5
Getseman locals' lunch spot with set menu (soup, main, juice, dessert) for 15,000 COP (~$3.50). Fills up at noon with workers from the neighborhoodMercado Bazurto$3 to $7
Chaotic, authentic, and not for the faint-hearted. Cartagena's real food market with fresh ceviche, fruit juices, and whole fried fish for locals' pricesLa Mulata$4 to $8
No-frills lunch counter in Getseman serving Caribbean set meals with fried fish, coconut rice, and lentil soup. Cash only, massive portionsGo off-script
1
Sunset on the city wallsStart at Café del Mar at 5pm, grab a cocktail, then walk the entire western wall as the sun drops into the Caribbean. The sky turns pink and the Old City glows gold
2
Rosario Islands boat tripTake a morning lancha (motorboat) from the clock tower dock to Isla Grande or Cholon. Snorkel, eat fresh fish on the beach, and return by sunset
3
Salsa class at Café HavanaTake a lesson at Crazy Salsa school in Getseman (5pm to 7pm, $15), then put your moves to work at Café Havana when the live band starts at 10pm
4
Bazurto market tourGo with a local guide (La Cocina de Pepina runs tours) to navigate Cartagena's real market. Raw, chaotic, and the most authentic food experience in the city
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Agree on taxi prices before getting in. Old City to airport is 20,000 to 25,000 COP ($5 to $6). Download InDriver for fair, negotiated prices
- ✓Street vendors sell fresh fruit cups, ceviche, and arepas everywhere. They're generally safe to eat and incredibly cheap ($1 to $3). Follow the locals
- ✓The heat is brutal from noon to 3pm. Plan indoor activities (museums, lunch) during this window and explore outdoors in the morning and after 4pm
“Ate $1 arepas de huevo for breakfast, danced salsa until 2am at Café Havana, and took a boat to paradise islands for $30. Colombia is the most underrated country in the Americas.”
Skip
- ✗Horse-drawn carriages in the Old City: the horses suffer in 95°F heat and the routes are overpriced ($30+ for 20 minutes). Walk instead and see more
- ✗Rosario Islands package tours (overcrowded boats, rushed schedules, bad food). Book a private lancha with fishermen at the dock for a better experience at similar cost
- ✗Emerald shops near the clock tower: heavily marked up and tourist-targeted. If you want emeralds, go to Caribe Joyeros on San Pedro street where locals actually buy
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