What to do once you land inCuscoFind your bearings
Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire and the bones of that civilization still show everywhere in the precision-cut stone walls beneath colonial churches, in the textile traditions of mountain communities, and in the terraced hills surrounding the city. At 3,400m (11,150ft), altitude is real. Take your first day slow.
Neighborhoods
Plaza de Armas — The historic heart with baroque churches, restaurants, and the best people-watching in Peru
San Blas — The bohemian artists' quarter uphill from the plaza. Galleries, craft shops, and steep cobblestone streets
San Pedro Market area — The main food market and surrounding streets where locals eat lunch for $2-3
Sacsayhuamón hill — The massive Inca fortress above the city with panoramic views and giant perfectly-fitted stone walls
Barrio de San Cristóbal — Quiet residential neighborhood above the center with the best sunset viewpoint over the city
Best time to visit
May through September is dry season clear skies for Machu Picchu and hiking. June has Inti Raymi festival. November through March is rainy but cheaper and less crowded.
Getting around
Walk everywhere in the center the city is compact but steep. Go slowly for altitude
Colectivos to Sacred Valley towns (Pisac, Ollantaytambo) leave from Calle Pavitos for $1-2
Taxis anywhere in the city cost $1-2 (sol 3-5). Use InDriver or agree on price first
PeruRail and IncaRail trains to Machu Picchu leave from Poroy station (15 min taxi)
Key areas
Plaza de ArmasSan BlasSan Pedro MarketSacsayhuamnSacred Valley
Zero-dollar wins
1
San Pedro MarketWander Cusco's main market: fresh juices for $0.50, cheese empanadas, exotic fruits, and people-watching
2
Inca walls walkTrace the Inca stone foundations along Hatunrumiyoc street. Find the famous 12-angle stone
3
San Cristóbal viewpointHike up to the white church for the best panoramic view of Cusco's terracotta rooftops at sunset
4
Plaza de Armas people-watchingThe grand colonial square is free to enjoy. Watch processions, performers, and daily life unfold
5
Sacsayhuamón at dawnThe massive fortress is free before 7am (guards arrive at 7). Go early for an empty site and sunrise
6
San Blas gallery walkDozens of artist studios and galleries line the steep cobblestone streets. Free to browse
7
Qorikancha exterior wallsThe Inca sun temple's original walls are visible from outside some of the finest stonework in the Americas
8
Chocolate MuseumFree entry with tastings. Learn about Peruvian cacao and sample artisanal chocolate
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
MAP Café (Museo de Arte Precolombino)$70 to $110
Fine dining inside a colonial museum courtyard. Peruvian tasting menu with altitude-friendly pacingMil Centro (Moray)$150 to $200
Virgilio Martnez's restaurant at 3,500m inside Inca agricultural terraces. Multi-course experienceBelmond Hiram Bingham train$400 to $500
Luxury train to Machu Picchu with brunch, cocktails, and observation car through the Sacred ValleyPalacio Nazarenas spa$100 to $150
Oxygen-enriched rooms and an indoor pool in a converted 16th-century convent. Best altitude recoveryThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Chicha (Gastón Acurio)$25 to $45
Peru's most famous chef's Cusqueo outpost in a colonial courtyard on the plazaCuy (guinea pig) confit with Andean potatoesCicciolina$20 to $35
Cusco's beloved tapas bar upstairs on a colonial balcony overlooking the streetAlpaca carpaccio with rocoto pepperMorena Peruvian Kitchen$15 to $30
Modern Peruvian in San Blas with creative ceviches and a rooftop terraceNikkei ceviche with tiger's milk and ajíJack's Café$8 to $15
Beloved brunch spot with huge portions. The line at 9am tells you everythingEggs Benedict with pulled pork and ají hollandaiseLimo (Nikkei)$20 to $40
Japanese-Peruvian fusion overlooking Plaza de Armas. Sushi meets cevicheTiradito de atón with passion fruit leche de tigrePachapapa$12 to $25
Open courtyard in San Blas with traditional clay-oven cooking and live music eveningsCuy al horno (whole roasted guinea pig)Where locals eat
Where residents actually go
San Pedro Market stalls$1 to $3
Lunch menus for $2: soup, main, drink. The juice ladies blend anything fresh for $0.50El Encuentro$3 to $5
Tiny local lunch spot near Plaza San Francisco with massive portions of lomo saltadoTaquería del Cuy$3 to $5
Guinea pig sandwiches on the plaza served from a window. Sounds weird, tastes incredibleMercado de Wanchaq$1 to $3
The locals-only market on the edge of town. Cheaper than San Pedro with fewer touristsLa Rabona$5 to $8
Hole-in-the-wall cevichera that locals line up for. Only open until 3pm when the fish runs outPanadera El Buen Pastor$1 to $3
Bakery run by nuns in San Blas with fresh empanadas and pastries from 6amGo off-script
1
Rainbow Mountain hikeThe Vinicunca striped mountain is surreal at 5,036m. Start at 4am and go with a local guide for $25
2
Sacred Valley market day (Pisac)Sunday's Pisac market fills with textiles and locals trading produce. Take the $1 colectivo
3
Moray agricultural terracesInca crop laboratory with concentric circular terraces. Combine with Maras salt mines nearby
4
Cooking class with a local familyLearn to make ceviche, lomo saltado, and pisco sours in a home kitchen above San Pedro Market
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Take altitude seriously. Drink coca tea, walk slowly on day one, skip alcohol for 24 hours
- ✓The Boleto Turstico ($40) covers 16 ruins and museums essential if visiting Sacsayhuamón and Sacred Valley sites
- ✓Bargain gently at markets but not at restaurants. Starting at 50% of asking price is fair for textiles
- ✓Book Machu Picchu tickets weeks in advance online. They sell out, especially for sunrise slots
“The altitude hit me hard on day one but coca tea and a slow start fixed everything. By day three I was hiking to Rainbow Mountain.”
Skip
- ✗Plaza de Armas restaurants on the main balconies double the price, half the quality of spots one block away
- ✗Machu Picchu 'luxury' buses to Hydroelctrica a bumpy 7-hour ride marketed as scenic adventure
- ✗Tourist-priced alpaca goods on Hatunrumiyoc real alpaca is sold in San Pedro Market for 60% less