What to do once you land inFlorenceFind your bearings
Florence is compact enough to walk in a day but deep enough to explore for weeks. The centro storico has the heavy-hitter museums and the Duomo, but the Oltrarno across the river is where artisans still work in centuries-old workshops and trattorias serve to regulars, not tour groups. Get lost in the side streets — every alley reveals something.
Neighborhoods
Centro Storico — The Duomo, Uffizi, Piazza della Signoria, and Ponte Vecchio. Incredible but crowded from 10am to 6pm
Oltrarno — The artisan quarter across the Arno: leather workshops, Palazzo Pitti, Santo Spirito piazza, and local trattorias
San Lorenzo — The Medici Chapels, Mercato Centrale food hall, and the leather market. Gritty, bustling, authentic
Santa Croce — Quieter residential quarter with the Basilica, great aperitivo bars, and a lively piazza where locals play football
San Niccol — Tiny neighborhood at the base of Piazzale Michelangelo. Wine bars, artisan gelato, and the city's best sunset climb
Best time to visit
April through May and September through October for mild weather and manageable crowds. Summer is 95°F+ and overwhelmed. November has rain but empty museums and truffle season.
Getting around
Florence is a walking city. Everything in the center is within 20 minutes on foot
T1 tram connects Santa Maria Novella station to the airport in 20 minutes for $1.70
Rent a bike for the Arno river path or a ride up to Fiesole for hilltop views
ATAF buses are useful for Piazzale Michelangelo and Fiesole. Buy tickets at tabacchi shops before boarding
Key areas
DuomoOltrarnoSan LorenzoSanta CrocePiazzale Michelangelo
Zero-dollar wins
1
Piazzale Michelangelo sunsetThe postcard panorama of Florence. Hike up from San Niccol or take bus 12. Bring wine and join the sunset crowd
2
Duomo exterior and Baptistery doorsBrunelleschi's dome and Ghiberti's 'Gates of Paradise' are stunning from the piazza. No ticket needed to admire them
3
Ponte Vecchio at golden hourWalk across the medieval bridge lined with goldsmiths. Free, iconic, and magical when the light hits the Arno
4
San Miniato al MonteRomanesque church above Piazzale Michelangelo with even better views and Gregorian chant at 5:30pm vespers
5
Oltrarno artisan workshop walkWander Via Maggio and side streets watching bookbinders, gilders, and leather workers through open doorways
6
Piazza Santo SpiritoThe Oltrarno's living room: morning flea market, afternoon aperitivo crowds, and a Brunelleschi church facade
7
Boboli Gardens (free first Sunday)Medici gardens behind Palazzo Pitti are free on the first Sunday of each month. Sculptures, grottoes, and cypress alleys
8
Rose Garden (Giardino delle Rose)Hillside garden below Piazzale Michelangelo with 350 rose varieties, Japanese sculptures, and city views. Always free
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Enoteca Pinchiorri$250 to $400
Three Michelin stars and Italy's most legendary wine cellar. A once-in-a-lifetime Florentine dining experienceBistecca alla Fiorentina at Buca Mario$70 to $120
Historic cellar restaurant since 1886. Their T-bone steak is 3 fingers thick, shared, and cooked over chestnut embersPrivate Uffizi after-hours tour$100 to $150
Small-group evening access after public closing. Botticelli's Birth of Venus with 10 people instead of 1,000Hot air balloon over Tuscany$250 to $350
Dawn flight over vineyards, olive groves, and medieval hill towns with prosecco landing. Absolutely unforgettableThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Trattoria Mario$10 to $18
Communal tables, no reservations, cash only, lunch only. Florentine home cooking since 1953 near San LorenzoRibollita (Tuscan bread and bean soup)All'Antico Vinaio$6 to $10
The world's most-reviewed sandwich shop on TripAdvisor. The line moves fast and the schiacciata sandwiches are enormousLa Favolosa (truffle cream, artichoke, spicy salami)Trattoria Sostanza$25 to $40
Tiny, no-frills trattoria open since 1869. Six tables, two seatings, and the butter chicken that changed FlorenceBurro chicken breast (pan-fried in butter)Vivoli$4 to $7
Florence's most historic gelateria since 1929 near Santa Croce. Rich, dense gelato made with seasonal fruitCrema Vivoli (egg custard gelato)Il Latini$35 to $55
Boisterous Tuscan feast hall with prosciutto hanging from the ceiling and communal tables of bistecca and chiantiBistecca alla Fiorentina (shared Florentine T-bone)Mercato Centrale upper floor$10 to $20
Artisan food hall above San Lorenzo market with pasta, lampredotto, pizza, and truffle stations from top vendorsFresh pasta with wild boar ragúWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
I' Trippaio del Porcellino$4 to $6
Street cart near the bronze boar statue serving lampredotto (tripe sandwiches). True Florentine street food for centuriesDa Nerbone$5 to $8
Lunch counter inside Mercato Centrale since 1872. Bollito sandwich dripping with salsa verde is the moveSandwiChic$5 to $9
Tiny panini spot in Oltrarno with focaccia made fresh hourly. Locals grab lunch here between workshop shiftsTrattoria da Rocco$6 to $10
Plastic chairs in Sant'Ambrogio market serving €5 pasta plates to students and market workers. No tourists, all flavorIl Pizzaiuolo$8 to $14
Neapolitan-style pizza in Santa Croce that locals argue is the best in Florence. Cash only, always fullTrattoria Cammillo$15 to $25
Old-guard Oltrarno trattoria where regulars order the same ribollita they've eaten for 30 years. Book aheadGo off-script
1
Day trip to FiesoleBus 7 from the center takes 25 minutes to this Etruscan hilltop town. Roman amphitheatre, monastery views, and escape from the crowds below
2
Leather-making workshopTake a half-day class in Oltrarno learning traditional Florentine leather tooling. You leave with a handmade wallet or journal
3
Wine tasting in ChiantiRent a car or join a small-group tour to the vineyards between Florence and Siena. Antinori, Castello di Verrazzano, or smaller family estates
4
Aperitivo crawl in Santo SpiritoFrom 6pm the piazza fills up. Start at Volume, hit Raffaello, and end at Il Santino for natural wines and crostini loaded with truffle honey
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Book Uffizi and Accademia tickets online weeks ahead. Skip-the-line is essential — walk-up queues can be 3+ hours in summer
- ✓Avoid restaurants with tourist menus, photos on the menu, or staff outside beckoning you in. Walk one more block for the real deal
- ✓Aperitivo (6pm to 8pm) with a $10 drink often includes a full buffet of pasta, bruschetta, and salads at many bars. It's basically dinner
- ✓Free water fountains (nasoni) are everywhere. Bring a refillable bottle and save $4 per water at restaurants
“We ate at Trattoria Mario three days in a row. Shared a table with an Italian grandma who ordered for us. Best meals of the trip by far.”
Skip
- ✗Piazza della Signoria restaurants: you're paying for the view of the Palazzo Vecchio, not for food quality. Grab a gelato and sit on the steps instead
- ✗Leather shops near San Lorenzo market: most sell cheap imported goods despite claiming 'genuine Florentine leather.' Buy from Oltrarno workshops or Scuola del Cuoio inside Santa Croce
- ✗Gelato places with mountains of brightly colored product: real gelato is stored in covered metal tins. If it's piled high and neon, it's full of additives