What to do once you land inHavanaFind your bearings
Havana is frozen in time and exploding with life simultaneously. Crumbling pastel buildings line streets where 1950s American cars rumble past, salsa music pours from open doorways, and the Malecón seawall is the city's living room at sunset. Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage site of baroque plazas, Vedado is the residential and nightlife district, and beyond that lies a city most tourists never see. The internet barely works, credit cards are unreliable, and that's part of the magic.
Neighborhoods
Old Havana (Habana Vieja) — UNESCO World Heritage colonial quarter with four main plazas, baroque churches, cobblestone streets, and most of the tourist infrastructure
Vedado — Residential grid of mid century homes, the Malecn's western stretch, Hotel Nacional, jazz clubs, and where young Cubans actually go out at night
Centro Habana — The gritty, authentic core between Old Havana and Vedado. Crumbling tenements, Chinatown, boxing gyms, and street life that hasn't changed in decades
Miramar — Wealthy western suburb with embassy row, the best paladares (private restaurants), and a quieter pace. Take a taxi out here for dinner
Playa del Este — Havana's beach escape, 20 minutes east. White sand, warm Caribbean water, and mostly Cuban families on weekends. The anti resort beach day
Best time to visit
November through April for dry season, warm days, and cool evenings. July and August are hot and humid with afternoon showers. September through October is hurricane season and best avoided. Festival season (December and January) brings jazz, film, and ballet festivals.
Getting around
Classic car taxis (colectivos) run fixed routes for 10 to 20 Cuban pesos. Share with locals along the Malecón route
Coco taxis (yellow egg shaped three wheelers) are fun and negotiate a price before hopping in. 500 pesos for a short trip is fair
Walking Old Havana is the only way to experience it. The four plazas are all within 15 minutes of each other on foot
Bring cash (Euros or USD) and exchange at official CADECA offices. Credit cards from US banks do not work in Cuba
Key areas
MalecnPlaza ViejaVedadoHotel NacionalCapitolio
Zero-dollar wins
1
The Malecón at sunsetHavana's 8km seawall comes alive every evening. Locals gather with rum, guitars, and conversation. The best free show in the Caribbean
2
Plaza Vieja people watchingThe restored colonial plaza is surrounded by colorful buildings, a camera obscura tower, and cafés. Grab a bench and watch Havana pass by
3
Callejón de Hamel (Sundays)Afro Cuban art alley that hosts free rumba performances every Sunday afternoon. Dancing, drums, and spiritual energy in a psychedelic setting
4
Paseo del Prado evening strollTree lined promenade from the Capitolio to the Malecn. Lions guard each end, marble benches line the center, and locals promenade every evening
5
Catedral de La Habana and its plazaBaroque cathedral from 1748 with an asymmetrical faade. The plaza in front is intimate, beautiful, and free to admire from every angle
6
Fbrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) courtyardEven without entering the gallery (minimal cover charge), the courtyard scene outside this converted oil factory is an event on weekend nights
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
La Guarida$40 to $70
Havana's most famous paladar in a crumbling Centro Habana tenement. Climb past laundry lines to reach a candlelit rooftop with inventive Cuban cuisineClassic car convertible sunset ride$50 to $80
Hire a 1955 Chevrolet or Buick convertible for a one hour cruise along the Malecón and through Vedado. Touristy but genuinely thrillingTropicana cabaret show$70 to $100
The legendary outdoor cabaret running since 1939. Dancers, costumes, and live orchestra under the stars in a tropical garden settingPrivate rooftop dinner at a casa particular$30 to $50
Arrange through your host for a multi course Cuban feast on a private rooftop. Lobster, rum cocktails, and the city lights belowThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
La Guarida$30 to $60
Made famous by the film Fresa y Chocolate. Now Havana's finest dining in a gorgeous crumbling building. The rooftop terrace overlooking Centro is unforgettableRopa vieja reimagined with slow cooked beef and crispy plantainsEl Rum Rum de la Habana$15 to $30
Charming Old Havana paladar with live son cubano music, inventive cocktails, and a menu that elevates traditional Cuban dishes without losing soulRum glazed pork with moros y cristianosDoña Eutimia$10 to $20
Tiny Plaza de la Catedral restaurant with the best ropa vieja in the city. Always packed, no reservations, arrive early or wait on the plazaClassic ropa vieja with black beans and fried plantainsEl Cocinero$20 to $40
Rooftop restaurant in a converted cooking oil factory in Vedado. Modern Cuban fusion, strong cocktails, and a scene that goes late into the nightGrilled lobster tail with garlic mojoJbaro (Vedado)$25 to $45
Farm to table Cuban cuisine in a minimalist space. Young chefs pushing boundaries with local ingredients. The most modern restaurant in HavanaTasting menu featuring heritage pork and tropical fruitsWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Pizza on the street (peso pizza)$0.50 to $1
Cuban street pizza from hole in the wall windows all over Centro and Vedado. Simple, cheesy, and $0.50 a slice. Not gourmet but totally CubanEl Cafetón (Centro Habana)$1 to $3
Standing counter lunch spot where Cubans grab pan con lechón (roast pork sandwich) and strong coffee. Fast, cheap, and authentic as it getsMercado agropecuario stalls$2 to $4
Agricultural markets where you can grab fresh tropical juices, fried empanadas, and comida criolla plates from vendors cooking on siteSan Cristóbal (Centro Habana)$8 to $15
Cozy paladar in a decorated family home. Generous portions of classic Cuban cooking with a personal touch. Obama ate here, but it's still priced for localsLos Nardos (Capitolio)$5 to $12
Massive portions of chicken, pork, and lobster at unbelievable prices, right across from the Capitolio. The line is long because the value is absurdGo off-script
1
Classic car convertible ride along the MalecnHire a 1950s American convertible (Chevy, Buick, or Ford) and cruise the seawall with wind in your hair, past fishermen, lovers, and crumbling art deco buildings
2
Salsa lesson at a casa particularSkip the tourist salsa schools. Ask your casa host to connect you with a neighborhood instructor who'll teach you in their living room with real Cuban son playing
3
Cigar factory tourVisit the Partags or H. Upmann factory to watch master torcedores hand roll cigars. Buy a box at factory prices and learn to spot fakes on the street
4
Fusterlandia mosaic neighborhoodJosé Fuster covered his entire Jaimanitas neighborhood in whimsical mosaics inspired by Gaudí. Bus stops, houses, fences, all transformed into public art. Free to wander
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓US citizens can legally visit Cuba under specific travel categories (Support for the Cuban People is the most common). Keep a daily log of people to people activities and save receipts
- ✓Bring enough cash for your entire trip. US credit and debit cards do not work in Cuba. Euros get the best exchange rate at official CADECA offices
- ✓WiFi is available at ETECSA hotspots and tourist hotels, but it's slow and requires buying access cards. Download maps, music, and entertainment before you fly
- ✓Cuban convertible pesos and Cuban national pesos unified in 2021 but confusion remains. Confirm which currency before any transaction
“Nothing prepares you for the Malecón at golden hour. A fisherman handed me a sip of homemade rum, a band started playing behind us, and I realized no Instagram photo will ever capture this.”
Skip
- ✗La Bodeguita del Medio mojitos ($8 each): Hemingway's alleged haunt charges triple for watered down drinks. Walk two blocks in any direction for mojitos half the price and double the rum
- ✗Street cigar sellers: 90% are fakes stuffed with banana leaves. Only buy from official La Casa del Habano shops or factory stores. If the deal seems too good, it is
- ✗Horse carriage rides in Old Havana: overpriced for tourists and the horses are often in poor condition. Walk the plazas instead, everything is close