What to do once you land inLimaFind your bearings
Lima is South America's culinary capital, a sprawling Pacific coast city where ancient Incan ruins sit next to world class restaurants and surf breaks. Miraflores is polished and touristy, Barranco is artsy and bohemian, and Centro Històrico is grand but gritty. The food alone is worth the trip. Ceviche here will ruin ceviche everywhere else for you.
Neighborhoods
Miraflores — The polished tourist hub with ocean cliffs, Parque Kennedy, upscale shopping, and the Malecón boardwalk stretching for miles along the Pacific
Barranco — Lima's bohemian heart. Street art, live music bars, craft cocktail spots, and the Bridge of Sighs. Best nightlife in the city
Centro Històrico — Colonial grandeur around Plaza Mayor with baroque churches, the catacombs of San Francisco, and bustling Chinatown (Barrio Chino)
San Isidro — The business district with a hidden gem: Olivar Park's ancient olive groves, plus some of Lima's finest restaurants tucked on quiet streets
Chorrillos — Working class fishing neighborhood south of Barranco. The fish market is where chefs buy their ceviche fish at dawn, and the local beach has zero tourists
Best time to visit
December through April for sunny skies and warm temperatures. May through November is gara season (overcast coastal fog), which keeps temperatures mild but grey. Prices drop significantly in the foggy months, and the food is just as good.
Getting around
The Metropolitano bus rapid transit runs north to south through the city for 2.50 soles (under $1). Buy a rechargeable card at any station
Taxis are cheap but always agree on the fare before getting in. Use InDriver or Uber for transparent pricing
Walking Miraflores and Barranco is easy and pleasant. Between neighborhoods, grab a taxi or rideshare for $3 to $5
The airport is in Callao, 45 minutes from Miraflores. Airport Express Lima bus is $8 one way and drops at Miraflores Park Hotel
Key areas
MirafloresBarrancoPlaza MayorMalecnHuaca Pucllana
Zero-dollar wins
1
Malecón de Miraflores6km clifftop boardwalk overlooking the Pacific. Watch paragliders launch at sunset, spot surfers below, and stroll through manicured parks
2
Parque KennedyMiraflores central park with resident cats everywhere, weekend art markets, street performers, and people watching from any bench
3
Barranco street art walkWander the streets around the Bridge of Sighs and find massive murals on every block. The art changes constantly and tells stories of Peruvian culture
4
Circuito Mgico del AguaWater fountain park in the Parque de la Reserva with laser shows and 13 illuminated fountains. The entry fee is nominal (4 soles) but the park grounds are free
5
Plaza Mayor and CathedralLima's colonial heart with the Government Palace, Archbishop's Palace, and the changing of the guard ceremony at noon daily
6
Bajada de BañosThe historic path connecting Barranco's clifftop to the beach below. Colorful steps, ocean views, and the neighborhood's best photo spot
7
Larcomar sunsetThe shopping center itself is pricey, but the ocean terrace is free and gives you a front row sunset view from the Miraflores cliffs
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Central$120 to $200
Virgilio Martnez's famous restaurant exploring Peru's ecosystems through altitude. Consistently on the World's 50 Best list. Book months aheadMaido$100 to $170
Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) cuisine at its finest. Mitsuharu Tsumura's tasting menu blends two cultures with surgical precision. Also on the world's best listHuaca Pucllana dining$60 to $100
Fine dining restaurant literally built into a 1,500 year old adobe pyramid, illuminated at night. The ambiance is unmatched anywhereAstrid & Gastn$80 to $140
Gastón Acurio's flagship in a restored colonial mansion. Modern Peruvian tasting menu with impeccable service and a beautiful courtyard gardenThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Central$120 to $200
World's best restaurant list regular. Virgilio Martnez explores Peru's biodiversity from sea level to the Andes through an altitude based tasting menuAltitude tasting menu with Amazonian and Andean ingredientsLa Mar Cebichera$20 to $40
Gastón Acurio's ceviche temple. The freshest fish, bright leche de tigre, and a buzzing lunch scene that captures Lima's food energy perfectlyClassic ceviche with leche de tigre and sweet potatoAnticuchera Grimanesa Vargas$5 to $10
The queen of anticuchos (beef heart skewers). Street side stand in Miraflores that's become legendary. Cash only, always a line, always worth itAnticuchos de corazón with ají sauceIsolina Taberna Peruana$15 to $25
Massive portions of classic Peruvian comfort food in a Barranco tavern. The lomo saltado feeds two people easily, and the tacu tacu is legendaryLomo saltado with perfectly wok charred beefMaido$100 to $170
Nikkei cuisine (Japanese Peruvian fusion) at the highest level. Chef Mitsuharu's omakase counter is one of the most exciting meals in South AmericaNikkei tasting menu with Peruvian ingredientsWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Mercado de Surquillo stalls$2 to $5
Working class market where chefs shop at dawn. The food court upstairs serves ceviche, chicharrón, and juices for pocket change. Go before noonEl Chinito (Centro)$3 to $5
Sandwich institution since 1960. Their chicharrón sndwich (crispy pork with sweet potato and salsa criolla) has a cult following. Cash onlyTo Mario anticuchos cart$3 to $6
Parque Kennedy evening cart serving smoky beef heart skewers with fresh bread rolls. Open late, always busy, the smell alone pulls you inLa Lucha Sanguchera$5 to $8
Lima's beloved sandwich chain. The chicharrón and the lomo saltado sandwiches are perfect quick meals at any hour. Multiple locationsCanta Rana (Barranco)$8 to $12
No frills cevichera packed with locals at lunch. Generous portions, fresh fish, and cold beer. The mixed ceviche is enormous and under $10Sonia (Chorrillos fish market)$6 to $10
Inside the Chorrillos terminal, Sonia serves some of the city's freshest ceviche straight from the boats. Locals only, incredible valueGo off-script
1
Ceviche cooking class in BarrancoLearn to make proper ceviche, leche de tigre, and pisco sours from a local chef in a Barranco home kitchen. You'll shop the market together first, then cook and feast
2
Paragliding over Miraflores cliffsTandem paraglide from the Costa Verde cliffs with Pacific Ocean below and the Lima skyline behind you. Flights last 10 to 15 minutes and launch from Parque Raimondi
3
Huaca Pucllana ruins at nightThis pre Incan pyramid in the middle of Miraflores is dramatically illuminated after dark. Night tours run Wednesday through Sunday and the site feels magical under lights
4
Pisco sour crawl through Barranco barsHit four or five bars along the Bajada de Baños and surrounding streets, comparing each bartender's pisco sour recipe. Every spot has its own twist on the national cocktail
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Cevicherías close by 4pm or 5pm. Peruvians eat ceviche for lunch only because fish should be morning fresh. Plan accordingly and don't try to order it at dinner
- ✓Lima's gara (fog) season runs May through November. Pack layers and don't expect beach weather. The upside: fewer tourists and lower prices on everything
- ✓Tipping 10% is standard at restaurants. At street food spots and markets, tipping isn't expected but always appreciated
“I ate ceviche every single day for a week and each place was completely different. Lima ruined me for seafood anywhere else. And the pisco sours in Barranco at 2am? Unforgettable.”
Skip
- ✗Rosa Nutica (the pier restaurant): stunning location but overpriced food that doesn't match Lima's top cevicheras. Eat at La Mar instead for half the price and double the flavor
- ✗Larcomar mall restaurants: tourist markup on mediocre food with an ocean view. Walk 5 minutes to Barranco for better meals at real prices