What to do once you land inMauiFind your bearings
Maui is two volcanoes connected by an isthmus, and that geography creates wildly different microclimates. The west side (Kā'anapali, Lahaina) is dry and sunny. The east side (Hāna) is lush jungle. Upcountry is cool farmland. And Haleakalā rises 10,000 feet above it all. You need a car, you need a plan, and you need to slow way down.
Neighborhoods
Kīhei & Wailea — South Maui's sunny coast. Kīhei is affordable with great food trucks; Wailea is luxury resorts and manicured beaches
Pā'ia — Bohemian surf town and gateway to the Road to Hana. Health food cafés, boutiques, and the last gas before Hana
Upcountry (Makawao & Kula) — Cooler elevation with lavender farms, cowboys, and farm-to-table restaurants overlooking the central valley
Hāna — Remote east side town at the end of the famous road. Black sand beaches, waterfalls, and zero chain restaurants
Best time to visit
April through May and September through November for smaller crowds and lower prices. Whale season (December to April) is magical. Summer is busy but gorgeous.
Getting around
Rent a car — there is no real public transit and rideshares are expensive and unreliable on island
Book a Jeep or convertible for the Road to Hana. You'll want to stop constantly for waterfalls and views
Fill up gas in Pā'ia before Hana and in Kīhei before upcountry. Stations are sparse outside towns
Road to Hana is 620 curves and 59 bridges. Leave by 7am to beat the caravan of rental cars
Key areas
KīheiPā'iaHaleakalāRoad to HanaKā'anapali
Zero-dollar wins
1
Haleakalā sunriseWatch the sun rise above the clouds at 10,023 feet. Free with reservation (required). Book 60 days ahead at recreation.gov
2
Ho'okipa Beach sea turtle watchingGreen sea turtles haul out on the sand every afternoon. Watch from the designated viewing area — no touch, just awe
3
Twin Falls (Road to Hana mile 2)Easy 10-minute walk to a waterfall and swimming hole. First stop on the Road to Hana and the most accessible
4
Big Beach (Mākena)Undeveloped golden sand beach with body-surfable waves. No resorts, no vendors, just raw Maui coastline
5
Pā'ia town strollBrowse surf shops, art galleries, and health food cafés in this colorful hippie-surfer town. Free to wander and people-watch
6
Keawakapu Beach sunsetSouth Maui's quietest beach between Kīhei and Wailea. Gentle surf, golden sand, and spectacular sunsets with no crowds
7
Iao Valley State Park lookoutShort paved walk to views of the Iao Needle, a 1,200-foot moss-covered pinnacle in a lush green valley
8
Banyan Tree ParkSingle banyan tree planted in 1873 that now spans an entire block in downtown. Twelve trunk columns creating a natural cathedral
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Mama's Fish House$80 to $150
Legendary oceanfront restaurant in Pā'ia. Every fish on the menu lists who caught it and where. Book 2 weeks aheadMerriman's Kapalua$60 to $100
Farm-to-table pioneer Peter Merriman's Maui outpost. Sunset views over Kapalua Bay and Hawaiian-regional cuisinePrivate snorkel sail to Molokini$150 to $250
Charter a small boat to this crescent-shaped volcanic crater. Crystal visibility, fewer people than big tour boatsKa'ana Kitchen at Andaz$70 to $120
Wailea resort restaurant with a hyper-local tasting menu. Ingredients sourced within 100 miles of the kitchenHelicopter tour over Haleakalā$250 to $400
See waterfalls, sea cliffs, and the crater from above. Air Maui and Blue Hawaiian are the most reputable operatorsThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Mama's Fish House$60 to $120
The most famous restaurant on Maui for good reason. Thatched-roof oceanfront setting with the freshest catch on the islandStuffed mahimahi with lobster and crabTin Roof Maui$12 to $18
Sheldon Simeon's (Top Chef fame) casual plate lunch counter in Kahului. Local flavors, big portions, low pricesMochiko chicken with garlic noodlesStar Noodle$15 to $30
Shared plates of Asian noodles and small dishes with views above the harbor. One of west Maui's best valuesHapa ramen with pork bellyUlulani's Hawaiian Shave Ice$5 to $8
Locals and tourists agree: the best shave ice on Maui. Multiple locations, always a line, always worth itNo Ka Oi (coconut, mango, lilikoi with mochi and ice cream)Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop$10 to $18
Olowalu roadside stop between west and south Maui. Savory hand pies and banana cream that's worth a detourBanana cream pieWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Tamura's Fine Wine & Liquors poke counter$8 to $14
Grocery store with the best poke bowls on the island. Locals know to grab a pound of ahi poke and eat in the parking lotCoconut's Fish Cafe$10 to $16
Kīhei strip mall spot with fish tacos that locals have been obsessed with for years. Cash only, always a lineDa Kitchen$12 to $18
Local-style plate lunches in Kahului. Loco moco, kalua pig, and portions big enough for two mealsNuka$15 to $30
Tiny sushi spot in Ha'ikū that locals guard jealously. Omakase-style fresh fish in a converted house. Reservations essentialWow Wee Maui's Kava Bar & Grill$12 to $20
Kīhei late-night spot with solid burgers, kava drinks, and a reggae-chill vibe that keeps locals coming backSam Sato's$8 to $14
Wailuku institution since 1933. Dry mein noodles and manju pastries that locals drive across the island forGo off-script
1
Road to Hana (full day)620 curves, 59 bridges, countless waterfalls. Stop at Twin Falls, Wai'anapanapa black sand beach, and Seven Sacred Pools. Leave by 7am
2
Snorkel at Honolua BayNorth shore marine preserve with crystal-clear water, sea turtles, and reef fish. Free, uncrowded on weekdays, no facilities
3
Haleakalā bike descentWatch sunrise at the summit, then coast 23 miles downhill on a bicycle through clouds, farmland, and eucalyptus forests
4
Whale watching from shore (winter)December through April, humpback whales breach right offshore. McGregor Point lookout between Lahaina and Mā'alaea is the prime spot
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Book Haleakalā sunrise reservations exactly 60 days ahead at recreation.gov. They sell out in minutes
- ✓Reef-safe sunscreen is required by Hawaii law. Bring mineral zinc-based sunscreen or buy it at any ABC Store on island
- ✓Grocery prices are 30 to 50% higher than mainland. Stock up at Costco Kahului right after landing
- ✓Respect sacred sites and 'kapu' (no trespassing) signs. Hawaii's relationship with tourism is complicated — be a good guest
“We did sunrise at Haleakalā, drove the Road to Hana, and ended with shave ice in Pā'ia. Exhausting but the most incredible day of our trip.”
Skip
- ✗Lū'au at resort hotels: $150+ per person for a watered-down cultural experience. Old Lahaina Luau (if it reopens) or Feast at Lele are the real deal
- ✗ABC Store souvenirs: mass-produced trinkets at tourist prices. Hit the Maui Swap Meet on Saturdays for local crafts at half the cost
- ✗Molokini boat tours on large catamarans: overcrowded and rushed. Go with a small 6-person boat or snorkel Honolua Bay for free instead