What to do once you land inParisFind your bearings
Paris is a city of villages. Each arrondissement has its own personality, from the boho bookshops of the 5th to the canal-side brunch spots of the 10th. Skip the Champs-Élysées tourist corridor and explore the neighborhoods where Parisians actually spend their weekends. The city is compact enough that you can walk between most major sights.
Neighborhoods
Le Marais (3rd/4th) — Historic Jewish quarter turned trendy hotspot with vintage shops, falafel joints, and LGBTQ+ nightlife
Montmartre (18th) — Hilltop village feel with cobblestoned streets, artist studios, and some of the best views in the city
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th) — Classic Left Bank elegance with literary cafés, galleries, and serious patisseries on every corner
Belleville — Multicultural hilltop neighborhood with the best views in Paris, Chinese and North African food, and a thriving street art scene
Canal Saint-Martin (10th) — Young, creative crowd with natural wine bars, indie boutiques, and picnic-friendly canal banks
Best time to visit
April through June for warm days and blooming gardens. September and October bring fewer crowds, golden light, and harvest season wine. August is when Parisians leave and many local shops close.
Getting around
The Métro goes everywhere and a carnet of 10 tickets saves money. Buy a Navigo Easy card at any station
Vélib' bike-share is $5 for the day and the best way to see the city. Bike lanes are excellent along the Seine
Walking is the real way to explore. Most major sights are within 30 minutes of each other on foot
Avoid taxis at rush hour. The Métro is faster from 8 to 10am and 5 to 7pm
Key areas
Le MaraisMontmartreSaint-GermainCanal Saint-MartinÎle de la Cité
Zero-dollar wins
1
Sacré-CÅ“ur basilica and terraceFree entry to the basilica with a panoramic terrace view over all of Paris. Best at sunrise before crowds
2
Shakespeare and Company bookshopIconic English-language bookstore on the Seine. Browse for hours, read in the upstairs library, attend free evening readings
3
Père Lachaise CemeteryA sculpture garden disguised as a cemetery. Find Chopin, Wilde, and Morrison among moss-covered monuments
4
Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de ParisPermanent collection is always free, includes massive Matisse and Dufy murals most tourists miss entirely
5
Canal Saint-Martin locksWatch boats navigate the iron footbridges and locks. Bring a baguette, cheese, and a bottle of wine for the ultimate Parisian picnic
6
Jardin du LuxembourgThe Left Bank's grand garden with free chairs, a pond, and the best people-watching in the city
7
Coulée Verte (Promenade Plantée)The elevated park that inspired NYC's High Line. Walk above the streets through the 12th arrondissement
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie$65 to $98
Historic foie gras house near Les Halles with a prix fixe lunch that justifies the price with every biteHôtel Costes courtyard cocktails$27 to $44 per cocktail
The see-and-be-seen terrace off Rue Saint-Honoré. Overpriced drinks but the atmosphere is pure Parisian cinemaSeine dinner cruise (Bateaux Mouches)$98 to $164
Kitchy? Maybe. Magical at night with the Eiffel Tower sparkling at 10pm? AbsolutelyMarché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen$55 to $545+
Europe's largest antique market. Budget for at least one splurge find, whether Art Deco or vintage HermèsThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Le Bouillon Chartier$13 to $22
Grand 1896 brasserie with stained glass and white-aproned waiters. Classic French at impossibly low pricesSteak frites with béarnaiseL'As du Fallafel$9 to $13
The Marais falafel king with a queue that wraps around the block. Worth every minute of waitingSpecial falafel pita with eggplant and harissaChez Janou$27 to $44
Provençal bistro famous for its all-you-can-eat chocolate mousse served from a giant bowl at the tableChocolate mousse (unlimited refills)Le Relais de l'Entrecôte$33 to $44
No menu, no choices. Just steak frites with their legendary secret herb butter sauce, served in two roundsEntrecôte with secret saucePink Mamma$16 to $33
Four-story Italian restaurant in the 10th with a rooftop terrace. No reservations, but the queue moves fastTruffle burrata pizzaCafé de Flore$11 to $27
The literary café where Sartre and Beauvoir wrote. Overpriced coffee, but the hot chocolate is legendaryChocolat chaud (African hot chocolate)Where locals eat
Where residents actually go
Du Pain et des Idées$2 to $5
Possibly the best bakery in Paris. Their pain des amis and escargot pastries sell out by 10am every dayChez Aline$7 to $10
Gourmet sandwiches from a converted horse-meat butcher shop near Canal Saint-Martin. The duck confit baguette is perfectionLe Bouillon Pigalle$11 to $16
Three-course French meals for under $16 in a gorgeous Art Deco space. The wait is worth itMarché d'Aligre$5 to $13
The least touristy market in central Paris. North African spices, fresh oysters, and the cheapest produce in the cityLe Petit Cler$16 to $24
Tiny neighborhood bistro on Rue Cler that locals guard jealously. Three courses with wine for $22Breizh Café Marais$13 to $20
Buckwheat galettes from Brittany with organic cider on tap. The complete (ham, egg, cheese) is tradition done rightGo off-script
1
Sacré-CÅ“ur at sunriseClimb the Montmartre steps before 7am and watch the city wake up below you in golden light. Almost nobody else will be there
2
Canal boat picnic on Canal Saint-MartinGrab bread, cheese, and wine from a fromagerie on Rue de Marseille, then sit on the iron bridges as boats pass underneath
3
Vintage shopping in Le MaraisKilo Shop sells vintage by weight. Thanx God for Friperie is curated perfection. Bring cash and an empty bag
4
Cooking class in MontmartreLa Cuisine Paris runs market-to-table classes starting at the local marché. Learn croissants or coq au vin from real chefs
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Most museums are free on the first Sunday of each month. Plan around it and save $55+ per person easily
- ✓Never order 'un café' expecting a large American coffee. You'll get an espresso. Ask for 'un allongé' or 'un café crème' instead
- ✓Boulangeries close one day per week (varies by shop) and many shut all of August. Check before making a special trip
- ✓The Eiffel Tower sparkles for 5 minutes every hour on the hour after dark. Best seen from Trocadéro or Champ de Mars
“We ate at Le Bouillon Chartier three nights in a row. Three courses of classic French food for $16 each. Paris doesn't have to be expensive.”
Skip
- ✗Ladurée on the Champs-Élysées: $4 per macaron and a 30-minute line. Pierre Hermès on Rue Bonaparte is better and faster
- ✗Restaurant Le Bouquet near the Eiffel Tower: tourist-menu trap with frozen food at fresh prices. Walk 10 minutes to Rue Saint-Dominique for real bistros
- ✗The 'friendship bracelet' guys at Sacré-CÅ“ur: they tie a bracelet on your wrist then demand $22 Just say no firmly and keep walking