What to do once you land inPhiladelphiaFind your bearings
Philly is America's most underrated food city hiding in plain sight. Beyond the cheesesteak hype, you'll find James Beard winners, a BYO restaurant culture that lets you bring your own wine, and neighborhoods with distinct personalities from Italian Market to Fishtown. It's also got more outdoor murals than any US city.
Neighborhoods
Old City / Society Hill — Colonial history with Independence Hall, cobblestone streets, and upscale restaurants
Center City / Rittenhouse — The downtown core with Rittenhouse Square park, fine dining, and boutique shopping
Fishtown — Former working-class neighborhood now Philly's coolest strip. Breweries, music venues, and new restaurants
South Philadelphia / Italian Market — Rocky territory the Italian Market, cheesesteak wars, and Vietnamese pho on the same block
Northern Liberties — Gentrified industrial area with excellent coffee, bars, and the Piazza at Schmidt's commons
Best time to visit
April through June and September through November for perfect weather. October has stunning fall color. Summer is hot and humid. December-February is cold but the Christmas markets are charming.
Getting around
SEPTA trains and buses cover the city. A day pass is $6.50 for unlimited rides
Uber and Lyft are reliable and affordable most rides within the city are $8-15
The city center is extremely walkable. Most attractions are within a 30-minute walk of each other
Indego bike share ($15/month) has stations across Center City, Fishtown, and South Philly
Key areas
Old CityRittenhouseFishtownItalian MarketReading Terminal
Zero-dollar wins
1
Philadelphia Museum of Art stepsRun the Rocky steps then turn around for the best view down the Benjamin Franklin Parkway
2
Reading Terminal Market browsingAmerica's oldest continuously operating market since 1893. Free to wander and sample
3
Mural Arts walking tour (self-guided)4,000+ outdoor murals make Philly the mural capital of the US. Maps available at visitphilly.com
4
Liberty Bell CenterSee America's iconic cracked bell for free. The line moves fast and the exhibit is well-done
5
Rittenhouse SquareThe city's most beautiful park. People-watch, read on a bench, or catch free summer concerts
6
Spruce Street Harbor ParkSeasonal waterfront park with hammocks, string lights, and floating gardens along the Delaware
7
Italian Market strollWalk 9th Street from Christian to Washington produce stalls, cheese shops, and the Philly experience
8
Schuylkill River TrailPaved riverside path perfect for walking, running, or cycling with skyline views
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Zahav$60 to $100
James Beard Outstanding Restaurant. Israeli cuisine that changed how America thinks about hummusVernick Food & Drink$55 to $90
Farm-driven American cooking in Rittenhouse. Every dish is precisely executedBarnes Foundation$25 to $30
The world's greatest private collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintingsFriday Saturday Sunday (FSS)$50 to $80
James Beard-winning bar program with inventive cocktails and stunning small platesVetri Cucina$100 to $160
Marc Vetri's intimate Italian tasting-menu restaurant. One of America's finest Italian kitchensThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Pat's King of Steaks$10 to $15
The original cheesesteak since 1930. Whiz wit (Cheez Whiz with onions) is the classic orderCheesesteak whiz witZahav$35 to $60
Michael Solomonov's masterpiece. The salatim and laffa bread hummus are transcendentWhole-roasted lamb shoulder for the tableJohn's Roast Pork$10 to $15
The locals' cheesesteak choice over the tourist spots. The roast pork Italian is even betterRoast pork Italian with sharp provolone and broccoli rabeReading Terminal Beiler's Donuts$2 to $5
Amish-made doughnuts that sell out by 10am. Get there at 8 or miss out entirelyGlazed old-fashioned doughnutFederal Donuts$8 to $14
Michael Solomonov's fried chicken and donut empire. The za'atar chicken is outrageously goodZa'atar fried chicken with garlic sauceDi Bruno Bros.$12 to $18
Italian specialty shop in the Italian Market since 1939. Sandwiches piled high with imported meatsThe Godfather Italian hoagieWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Geno's Steaks$10 to $14
Pat's archrival across the street. The provolone wit is the move here. Open 24 hoursPho 75$8 to $12
South Philly cash-only Vietnamese spot with massive bowls of pho for under $10Laser Wolf$30 to $45
Solomonov's Fishtown rooftop grill. Israeli shipudiya (skewer house) with mezze spread includedDalessandro's Steaks$9 to $13
Roxborough neighborhood spot that many locals argue makes the city's actual best cheesesteakThanh Thanh$8 to $14
Chinatown BYO with Vietnamese cuisine at impossibly low prices. Cash only, no frillsSulimay's$6 to $12
Fishtown breakfast diner that locals have been fighting over eggs at since 1936Go off-script
1
BYO dinner crawlPhilly's BYO culture means you bring wine to restaurants with no corkage. Hit 3 spots in one night with one bottle each
2
Fishtown brewery hopWalk between Evil Genius, Yards, and Punch Buggy. The Fishtown ale trail is all within 10 blocks
3
Magic Gardens mosaicIsaiah Zagar's immersive mosaic art installation covering an entire building on South Street
4
Schuylkill Banks kayakingRent a kayak and paddle the river through the city center with skyline views at water level
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Know the cheesesteak ordering protocol: cheese type first (whiz/provolone/american), then wit or witout (onions)
- ✓BYO restaurants are everywhere and don't charge corkage. Buy good wine at a shop and save $30-50 per meal
- ✓The PHLASH bus loops all major tourist sites for $2/ride or $5/day. Runs April-November
- ✓First Fridays in Old City means free gallery openings, wine, and art walks on the first Friday of every month
“Everyone told us to get Pat's or Geno's but a Philly local said John's Roast Pork is the real deal. He was right the roast pork Italian changed my life.”
Skip
- ✗Pat's vs Geno's debate locals eat at John's, Dalessandro's, or Angelo's instead
- ✗South Street shopping once cool, now mostly chain stores and tourist shops
- ✗Double-decker bus tours ($35) in a walkable city where PHLASH bus covers everything for $5
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