What to do once you land inPragueFind your bearings
Prague is a fairytale city that somehow costs less than a mid-range European dinner. Gothic spires, art nouveau facades, and medieval bridges are everywhere, but the city's real treasure is its beer culture. Czechs drink more beer per capita than anyone on earth, and the pub scene reflects it. Skip the Old Town Square tourist corridor and explore Vinohrady, Žikov, and Letná.
Neighborhoods
Staré Město (Old Town) — The medieval core with the Astronomical Clock, Powder Tower, and a maze of alleys hiding excellent cocktail bars and cafés
Malá Strana — Baroque beauty below the castle with embassy gardens, hidden courtyards, and riverside cafés
Vinohrady — Upscale residential with tree-lined streets, excellent wine bars, and the city's best brunch spots. Calm alternative to the center
Žikov — Gritty, bohemian neighborhood with the highest pub density in Europe. Where locals drink, not tourists
Holešovice — Up-and-coming creative district with converted warehouses, the DOX art gallery, and a booming restaurant scene
Best time to visit
May through June and September for warm days and manageable crowds. December for Christmas markets (stunning but packed). Avoid July and August when Old Town is overwhelmed with tour groups.
Getting around
Buy a 72-hour transport pass for $15. Covers metro, trams, and buses. Trams run 24/7
Walking is the best way to explore the center. Old Town to the Castle is 25 minutes on foot across Charles Bridge
Tram 22 is the scenic route: it passes the Castle, Malá Strana, and the National Theatre. Better than any tour bus
Bolt works well here and is much cheaper than taxis (which have a reputation for overcharging tourists near Wenceslas Square)
Key areas
Old TownVinohradyŽikovMalá StranaLetná Park
Zero-dollar wins
1
Charles Bridge at sunriseBe there by 6am and you'll share it with photographers only. By 9am there are 2,000 people and souvenir sellers everywhere
2
Letná Park beer garden viewsWalk up to the giant metronome for a panoramic view of the Vltava bridges. The beer garden sells half-litres for $3
3
Old Jewish Cemetery (exterior)Peer over the walls to see 12,000 gravestones stacked and leaning over 600 years. The cemetery itself is visible from multiple free vantage points
4
Vyšehrad fortress groundsAncient fortress south of center with free ramparts, Vltava views, and a cemetery where Dvořák and Kafka are buried
5
Prague Castle groundsThe courtyards and gardens are free to enter. You only pay to enter specific buildings. The views from the eastern gate are stunning
6
John Lennon WallConstantly evolving graffiti wall in Malá Strana. Bring a marker and leave your own mark, then find a quiet courtyard behind it
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
La Degustation Bohème Bourgeoise$87 to $131
Michelin-starred modern Czech cuisine that reimagines traditional recipes. Seven-course tasting menu with beer pairingsSaSaZu$44 to $76
Pan-Asian fine dining in a converted warehouse in Holešovice. The space alone is worth the visit, food backs it upBlack Light Theatre$27 to $44
Uniquely Czech theatrical experience using UV light and darkness. Ta Fantastika on Karlova is the original and bestPrague Castle evening concert$33 to $65
Classical concerts in the Lobkowicz Palace or St. George's Basilica. World-class acoustics in a medieval settingThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Lokál Dlouhááá$9 to $15
Modern Czech pub done right. Tank Pilsner Urquell (unpasteurized, only lasts 3 days) and traditional dishes updated with careSvíčkov (beef sirloin in cream sauce with dumplings)Kantýna$16 to $33
Butcher shop and grill in one. Pick your cut from the display case, they grill it to order. Czech beef at its finestDry-aged Czech ribeyeCafé Imperial$13 to $27
Stunning art nouveau ceramic-tiled café from 1914. The weekend brunch is a Prague institution worth queuing forEggs Benedict with hollandaise and Czech hamNase Maso$7 to $13
Tiny butcher shop with a few bar stools. Order a fresh burger or steak tartare and a beer. Simple, perfect, no fussBeef tartare prepared tablesideEska$16 to $27
Fermentation-focused restaurant in Karlón using Czech grains and produce. Sourdough bread alone is worth the tripHouse-fermented sourdough bread with smoked butterWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Trdelník stands (Vinohrady, not Old Town)$2 to $4
The chimney cakes in Old Town are tourist traps. The ones at JiRho z Poděbrad market are fresh, half the price, and actually Czech traditionKrčma$7 to $13
Medieval-themed basement tavern that's actually good. Roasted meats on swords, dark ale, and candle-lit stone roomsU Kurelu$4 to $9
No-frills neighborhood pub in Žikov with the cheapest fresh-tapped beer in Prague and solid goulashSisters Bistro$3 to $7
Open-face sandwiches (chlebcky) elevated to art. Traditional Czech snack reimagined with seasonal toppings at the Dlouh locationHavelsk Koruna$4 to $8
Self-service cafeteria near Old Town serving Czech classics to workers since the 90s. Point, pay, eat. Full meal for $5Go off-script
1
Rooftop beer at Letná ParkThe beer garden at the giant metronome serves $2 half-litres with the best panoramic view in the city. Sunset with a Pilsner is peak Prague
2
Underground bunker tourCold War nuclear bunkers under the city are open for guided tours. Creepy, fascinating, and a side of Prague most visitors never see
3
Kayak under Charles Bridge at sunriseRent kayaks from Slovanka island and paddle under Charles Bridge as the sun comes up. Completely different perspective on the city's most famous landmark
4
Jazz club in Staré MěstoU Staré Pan and Jazz Dock both have live sets nightly. Prague's jazz scene punches way above its weight for a city this size
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Czech crowns (CZK) are the local currency, not euros. 1 CZK is about $0.04. Use ATMs (Bankomats) and avoid exchange offices that advertise 'no commission' (they hide fees in bad rates)
- ✓A half-litre of excellent Czech lager costs $2 to $4 at local pubs. If you're paying more than $4.50, you're in a tourist trap
- ✓Tipping: round up to the nearest $0.50 or add 10% for great service. Tell the waiter the total you want to pay before they make change
- ✓Prague's metro closes at midnight. Night trams (numbered 51 to 59) run all night on 30-minute intervals and cover the whole city
“Drank world-class beer for $2 a pint, ate a five-course tasting menu for what a NYC appetizer costs, and walked through 600 years of history. Prague is absurdly underrated.”
Skip
- ✗Exchange offices on Wenceslas Square advertising '0% commission': they give terrible rates. Use a bank ATM or Wise card instead
- ✗Old Town Square restaurants with touts outside: $16 for goulash that costs $5 two streets away. If someone invites you in, keep walking
- ✗The Astronomical Clock crowd: watch it strike the hour from the side street (U Radnice), not crammed in the square where pickpockets work the distracted crowd