What to do once you land inSantiagoFind your bearings
Santiago sits in a valley with the snow-capped Andes as a permanent backdrop. On a clear day, 6,000-meter peaks tower over the city skyline. The wine country starts 45 minutes away, ski resorts are 90 minutes up the mountain, and the Pacific coast is an hour west. The city itself is modern, safe, and filled with creative neighborhoods.
Neighborhoods
Lastarria / Bellas Artes — The bohemian cultural district with museums, cafés, independent bookshops, and street performers
Bellavista — Neruda's house, Patio Bellavista restaurants, and the hill up to the Virgin Mary statue
Providencia — The upscale residential neighborhood with excellent restaurants, leafy streets, and Costanera Center tower
Barrio Italia — Antique shops turned into design studios, coffee roasters, and hidden restaurants in converted houses
Barrio Yungay / Brasil — Up-and-coming neighborhoods with street art, craft beer, and the city's most diverse food scene
Best time to visit
September through November (spring) and March through May (autumn) for pleasant weather and clear mountain views. June-August for skiing. December-February is hot summer Santiago empties as locals head to the coast.
Getting around
The Metro is modern, safe, and covers the entire city for $1. BIP card works on buses too
Uber and Cabify are reliable and cheap most city rides are $3-8
Walking between Lastarria, Bellas Artes, and Bellavista is easy and pleasant along the river
Turbus and Pullman run comfortable intercity buses with cama (lie-flat) seats for $10-30
Key areas
LastarriaBellavistaProvidenciaBarrio ItaliaCerro San Cristóbal
Zero-dollar wins
1
Cerro San CristóbalHike or take the funicular to the top for a 360° view of Santiago and the entire Andes chain
2
Mercado CentralThe stunning iron-and-glass market hall. Free to enter and browse the fresh fish stalls and local lunch spots
3
Lastarria street fairWeekend artisan market along the pedestrian street with craft goods, antiques, and street performers
4
Museo Nacional de Bellas ArtesChile's premier fine art museum in a gorgeous neoclassical building. Free entry always
5
Cerro Santa LucíaA hilltop park in the city center with fountains, gardens, and city views. Free year-round
6
La Chascona (Neruda's house exterior)Pablo Neruda's quirky Santiago home. The colorful exterior and neighborhood are free to explore
7
Parque BicentenarioModern park in Vitacura with flamingo lagoon, sculpture garden, and mountain views
8
Barrio Italia gallery walkWander through converted houses turned into galleries, design shops, and hidden courtyards
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Boragó$150 to $200
South America's best restaurant (World's 50 Best). Endemic Chilean ingredients in a tasting menu like nowhere elseMaipo Valley wine tour$80 to $120
Private driver through Chile's oldest wine region. 3 wineries with tastings and vineyard lunchSky Costanera observation deck$18 to $25
South America's tallest building with 360° views from 300m. On clear days, you see the Andes and the coast simultaneouslyValle Nevado ski day$80 to $120
World-class skiing 90 minutes from the city center with Andes panoramas at every turnW Santiago poolside day$40 to $60
Day pass to the W's rooftop pool and bar with Andes views and DJ sets on weekendsThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Boragó$100 to $150
Rodolfo Guzmn's tasting-menu restaurant using only Chilean endemic ingredients. Extraordinary and uniqueTasting menu with foraged Patagonian ingredientsLiguria$15 to $28
Beloved bistro in Providencia that's been the city's living room since forever. No reservations, just waitPisco sour and pastel de choclo (corn pie)La Mar (Gastón Acurio)$20 to $40
Peru's star chef's cevichera on the Mapocho river with inventive Nikkei-style raw fishClassic ceviche with leche de tigre and canchaDe Patio$25 to $40
Santiago's modern Chilean restaurant with a gorgeous courtyard and market-driven menuCongrio (conger eel) with pebre and new potatoesMercado Central restaurants$15 to $30
The market's central restaurants serve the freshest seafood platters in the cityPaila marina (Chilean seafood stew) steaming hotChipe Libre$10 to $20
Pisco republic a bar dedicated to the Chile vs Peru pisco debate. Flights and creative cocktailsPisco sour flight (3 different styles)Where locals eat
Where residents actually go
La Fuente Alemana$5 to $9
Legendary sandwich counter with enormous completo hot dogs and lomito sandwichesEmpanadas Zunino$2 to $4
The best pino (beef) empanadas in Santiago from a tiny counter near Mercado CentralMercado Central upper floor$6 to $12
Skip the touristy ground floor restaurants. The upstairs stalls serve the same fish at half the priceEl Hoyo$5 to $10
Workers' lunch spot near La Moneda palace with enormous Chilean comfort food portionsDomin (Lastarria)$3 to $7
Colorful café with excellent café cortado, handmade pastries, and people-watching on the streetLa Vega Central market$3 to $8
The locals' market across the river. Cheaper than Mercado Central with better juice stands and produceGo off-script
1
Casablanca Valley wine tastingCool-climate coastal valley between Santiago and Valparaíso specializing in sauvignon blanc and pinot noir
2
Day trip to ValparaísoThe colorful port city is 90 min away by bus. Street art, funiculars, Pablo Neruda's other house, and Pacific views
3
Cajón del Maipo hot springsDrive into the Andes to natural thermal pools surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Best in winter
4
Barrio Italia antique shoppingBrowse 100+ antique dealers, vintage furniture, and Chilean design studios in converted warehouses
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Chilean Spanish is notoriously fast with lots of slang. Don't worry Santiaguinos are patient and helpful with foreigners
- ✓Always ask 'con o sin IVA?' (with or without tax). Foreigners can often skip the 19% tax at hotels and some restaurants
- ✓Tap water is safe to drink everywhere in Santiago. Carry a bottle and refill
- ✓The city shuts down January-February (summer vacation). Many restaurants and shops close. March-December is better for visitors
“The Andes are RIGHT THERE. We had breakfast overlooking snow-capped mountains, went wine tasting by lunch, and ate the best ceviche of our lives at dinner. All for under $60.”
Skip
- ✗Mercado Central ground-floor restaurants with hawkers go upstairs or to La Vega instead
- ✗Overpriced Santiago city bus tours ($40) when the Metro covers everything for $1 per ride
- ✗Wine tours that only visit the tourist-heavy vineyards. Ask for boutique producers instead