What to do once you land inSantoriniFind your bearings
Santorini is a crescent-shaped volcanic island perched on a caldera cliff. Most visitors cluster in Oia and Fira for the iconic blue domes and sunset views, but the island has black sand beaches, wineries built into caves, ancient ruins, and villages untouched by Instagram. The caldera views are spectacular, but the soul of the island is in the quiet east-coast villages and family-run tavernas.
Neighborhoods
Oia — The iconic sunset village on the northern tip. Blue domes, narrow paths, luxury boutiques, and the most photographed spot in Greece
Fira (Thira) — The capital and transport hub perched on the caldera rim. Museums, nightlife, shopping, and dramatic cliff-edge views
Imerovigli — The highest point on the caldera between Oia and Fira. Called the 'balcony to the Aegean' quieter, equally stunning
Kamari & Perissa — East coast black sand beach towns with a laid-back vibe, beachfront tavernas, and actual swimming (caldera side is deep)
Pyrgos — Medieval hilltop village in the island's center. Fortress ruins, local wine bars, and zero crowds compared to Oia
Best time to visit
May through June and September through October for warm weather without peak-season crowds and prices. July and August are hot, packed, and expensive. April has wildflowers and some closures.
Getting around
Rent an ATV or quad bike it's the local way. Roads are narrow and parking in villages is nearly impossible by car
Local KTEL buses connect all major towns for $2 to $3 USD. They run frequently but get packed in summer
Taxis are scarce and don't use meters. Agree on price or pre-book through your hotel
Walk the caldera path from Fira to Oia (6 miles, 3 hours) for the best views on the island do it in the morning
Key areas
OiaFiraImerovigliKamariAkrotiri
Zero-dollar wins
1
Fira to Oia caldera hike10km clifftop trail with non-stop caldera views, passing through Imerovigli and Firostefani. Free and unforgettable
2
Oia sunset from the castle ruinsThe famous sunset spot (Oia Castle/Byzantine ruins). Arrive 90 minutes early to claim a spot. Free, magical, crowded
3
Amoudi Bay swimWalk down 300 steps below Oia to this tiny fishing port. Swim off the rocks and jump off the cliff into deep blue water
4
Prophet Elias Monastery viewpointDrive or hike to the island's highest point for 360-degree views of the caldera, neighboring islands, and the Aegean
5
Perissa black sand beachDramatic volcanic black sand beach with free access areas between the beach clubs. Mesa Pigadia to the south is quieter
6
Pyrgos village wanderGet lost in the medieval alleys of this fortified hilltop village. No entrance fee, beautiful views, local character
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Lycabettus Restaurant$80 to $140
Fine dining in Oia with caldera views, creative Greek cuisine, and an exceptional local wine listSunset catamaran cruise$100 to $180
Sail the caldera with stops at the hot springs, Red Beach, and White Beach. BBQ dinner and wine on boardSelene Restaurant$90 to $150
Fira's most acclaimed fine dining: modern Greek tasting menu using Santorini's volcanic terroir. Chef Georgiou is exceptionalPrivate cave suite hotel night$400 to $800
Experience a caldera-view cave pool suite at Canaves or Grace Hotel. Once-in-a-lifetime Santorini splurgeThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Ammoudi Fish Tavern$25 to $45
Tables on the rocks at sea level below Oia. Fresh-caught fish grilled whole, octopus drying on lines overheadGrilled octopus with fava pure and capersMetaxi Mas$15 to $30
Hidden in Exo Gonia village, this is where locals eat. Cretan-influenced Greek food, zero pretense, massive portionsLamb shank with honey and thyme in a clay potTo Psaraki$20 to $40
Beachfront seafood taverna in Vlychada port. Fishermen bring the catch directly. Simple, fresh, and perfectly grilledGrilled sea bream with lemon, olive oil, and wild oreganoKoukoumavlos$50 to $80
Upscale creative Greek in Fira with a balcony overlooking the volcano. Molecular touches on traditional flavorsSantorini fava three ways with cured fish and wild caper leavesLucky's Souvlakis$5 to $10
Hole-in-the-wall souvlaki in Fira that locals queue for. The gyro wrap is enormous and costs almost nothingPork gyro wrap with tzatziki, tomato, onion, and fries insideWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Lucky's Souvlakis$5 to $9
Best cheap eat in Fira. Massive gyro wraps and souvlaki plates that rival any sit-down restaurant on the islandPitogyros Grill House$6 to $12
Another Fira souvlaki legend with outdoor seating. The pita wraps are thick and hand-rolled, loaded with meatMetaxi Mas$15 to $28
The hidden taverna in Exo Gonia village. Call ahead for a table it books up because every local loves itTo Spitaki (The Little House)$15 to $30
Tiny family taverna in Megalochori serving home-cooked Greek classics. The moussaka is a time machine to a yiayia's kitchenSkaros Fish Tavern$20 to $35
Imerovigli spot with caldera views and honest prices. Fresh fish by the kilo, Greek salad, and house wineArgo Restaurant$20 to $40
Family-run spot in Fira serving solid traditional Greek at fair prices. The view is caldera-worthy without the tourist markupGo off-script
1
Akrotiri archaeological siteA Minoan city preserved under volcanic ash since 1600 BC Santorini's own Pompeii. Multi-story buildings, frescoes, and drainage systems from 3,600 years ago
2
Wine tasting in volcanic vineyardsVisit Santo Wines, Venetsanos, or Gavalas winery. Assyrtiko grapes grown in basket shapes on volcanic soil produce wines you can't find anywhere else
3
Swim at Red Beach and White BeachVolcanic beaches with surreal colored cliffs. Red Beach is a short walk from Akrotiri; White Beach requires a boat. Both are otherworldly
4
Hike the volcano at Nea KameniBoat to the active volcanic island in the center of the caldera. Hike to the crater, smell the sulfur, then swim in hot springs on the way back
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Book restaurants in Oia 2 to 3 days ahead in summer. Caldera-view tables go fast, especially at sunset
- ✓The famous blue dome church (Anastasi) is in Oia near the bus stop not up in the castle area where most tourists wander
- ✓Bring cash for small tavernas and buses. Many places outside Fira/Oia don't take cards reliably
- ✓Stay in Imerovigli or Firostefani for caldera views at half the Oia price, and walk to both Oia and Fira
“Ate at Metaxi Mas three times. It's hidden in the hills, no caldera view, and the best meal we had in Greece. The lamb shank at $18 put the $90 fine dining to shame.”
Skip
- ✗Oia sunset restaurants with caldera views: beautiful but $15 for a basic Greek salad. Eat inland and walk to the castle for free sunset
- ✗Cable car + donkey ride in Fira: the donkey ride is cruel (overworked animals on hot steps). Take the cable car or walk
- ✗Volcano boat tours from cruise ships: overcrowded and overpriced. Book a smaller local boat from Fira's old port
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