What to do once you land inSavannahFind your bearings
Savannah is a city built for walking slowly with a drink in hand. The Historic District is a grid of 22 moss draped squares, each one a tiny park perfect for sitting and people watching. You can carry open containers on the street (legally), the architecture is gorgeous, and the food scene blends Lowcountry traditions with new Southern creativity. The pace is deliberately slow, the hospitality is genuine, and the Spanish moss hanging from every live oak gives the whole city an otherworldly beauty.
Neighborhoods
Historic District — The walkable core of the city. 22 public squares connected by cobblestone streets lined with antebellum homes, restaurants, and hidden gardens behind iron gates
Forsyth Park — Savannah's central park anchored by the iconic fountain. Farmers market on Saturdays, pickup frisbee on the lawn, and the best people watching in the city
Starland District — The creative neighborhood south of Forsyth. Local coffee shops, vintage stores, murals, and newer restaurants away from the tourist circuit
Tybee Island — Savannah's beach, 20 minutes east. Low key, slightly funky, with great seafood shacks and a wide sandy beach. Sunrise here is worth the early alarm
City Market — Open air market area in the Historic District with live music, restaurants, art galleries, and carriage rides. Touristy but still charming, especially at night
Best time to visit
March through May and October through November for perfect weather (70s, low humidity, blooming azaleas in spring). June through August is hot and humid. December through February is mild but quieter. October is peak season for ghost tours and Halloween atmosphere.
Getting around
Walk everywhere in the Historic District. It's compact (about 2.5 square miles) and that's the whole point of the city's design
Free DOT shuttle buses loop through downtown and to the visitor center. Handy for longer stretches or tired feet
Drive or rideshare to Tybee Island (20 minutes). No real transit option to the beach
Skip the car if staying downtown. Parking is scarce and expensive, and you won't need a car for most of your trip
Key areas
Forsyth ParkRiver StreetCity MarketTybee IslandBroughton Street
Zero-dollar wins
1
Walk all 22 historic squaresEach square has its own character, monuments, and stories. Start at Chippewa Square (the Forrest Gump bench spot) and meander south to Monterey Square. Free and endlessly photogenic
2
Forsyth Park fountain and groundsThe most photographed spot in Savannah. Walk the paths under live oaks, watch the Saturday farmers market, and let the fountain spray cool you off in summer
3
River Street strollCobblestone riverfront with views of massive cargo ships passing by. Free to walk, window shop, and watch the ships. Most impressive at golden hour
4
Bonaventure CemeteryHauntingly beautiful cemetery on a bluff over the Wilmington River. Spanish moss, elaborate sculptures, and the setting of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. Free and open daily
5
Cathedral of St. John the BaptistStunning French Gothic cathedral with soaring stained glass windows. Free to enter (donations appreciated), and the acoustics during quiet afternoons are magical
6
Wormsloe Historic Site entranceThe mile long avenue of 400 live oaks draped in Spanish moss is one of the most photographed spots in the South. The entrance road alone is worth the trip
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
The Grey$80 to $140
James Beard Award winning restaurant in a restored 1930s Greyhound bus station. Chef Mashama Bailey's menu blends Southern and global flavors in a jaw dropping art deco spaceElizabeth on 37th$70 to $120
Upscale Southern dining in a turn of the century mansion. Multi course tasting menus with Lowcountry ingredients, elegant service, and the feeling of dining in someone's very fancy homeThe Olde Pink House$50 to $90
Fine dining in a 1771 Georgian mansion. The she crab soup and crispy scored flounder are signatures. Candlelit rooms, live piano in the basement tavern, and old Savannah atmosphereCommon Thread$90 to $130
Intimate tasting menu restaurant in the Starland District. Seasonal courses sourced from local farms with creative presentations. Small room, big flavors, and a chef who visits every tableThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room$25 to $30
Southern boarding house style lunch served family style at communal tables. Fried chicken, collards, sweet potatoes, and 20+ dishes passed around. Cash only, line starts at 10:30am, no menu neededFamily style spread with fried chicken, mac and cheese, and cornbreadThe Grey$40 to $70
Chef Mashama Bailey's game changing restaurant in a former Greyhound station. The port city fried rice and smoked lamb neck have become Savannah institutionsPort city fried rice with shrimp and country hamLeopold's Ice Cream$5 to $8
Family owned since 1919. Handmade ice cream in an old fashioned parlor that hasn't changed in decades. The line wraps the block but moves fast. Tutti frutti and lemon custard are legendsTutti frutti ice cream in a homemade waffle coneShrimp and grits (everywhere)$14 to $22
Savannah's signature dish appears on every menu in town. Creamy stone ground grits with local shrimp, andouille sausage, and gravy. Every restaurant has their version and most are excellentLowcountry shrimp and grits with andouille and tomato gravyAngel's BBQ$10 to $16
Tiny counter service joint near the river serving some of the best pulled pork in the Southeast. Run by one pitmaster, limited hours, and it sells out regularly. No frills, all flavorPulled pork sandwich with house vinegar slawWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
Back in the Day Bakery$5 to $12
Beloved local bakery in Starland with biscuits, quiche, and pastries that sell out early. The cheddar chive biscuit and banana pudding are reasons to set an alarm. Cash friendlyGreen Truck Pub$10 to $16
Neighborhood burger joint with locally sourced patties, craft beer, and a laid back patio. The fried green tomato BLT is a hidden menu hero. Popular with locals, ignored by touristsZunzi's$10 to $15
South African and Italian inspired sandwiches in a cramped, colorful space. The Godfather (chicken, pesto, roasted peppers) has a cult following. Messy, loud, and perfect for lunchFox & Fig Cafe$12 to $18
Plant based cafe in a beautifully renovated Victorian house. Creative vegan brunch (the mushroom benedict is unreal) and excellent coffee. Proving Southern food can be meatless and deliciousCrystal Beer Parlor$12 to $22
Operating since 1933, this is Savannah's original neighborhood bar and grill. Crab stew, onion rings, and cold draft beer in a space that hasn't tried to be trendy and is better for itGo off-script
1
Ghost tour after darkSavannah is considered America's most haunted city, and the tours deliver. Skip the big bus versions and book a small group walking tour through the squares after 9pm. The stories are genuinely creepy and the setting is perfect
2
To go cocktails while walking the squares (legal here)Georgia allows open containers in Savannah's Historic District. Grab a cocktail from any bar in a to go cup, then stroll through the squares sipping under the live oaks. It's civilized drinking at its finest
3
Kayak through the marshesRent a kayak on the Moon River or Skidaway Island and paddle through the salt marshes at golden hour. Dolphins, herons, and absolute silence except for your paddle. A completely different Savannah experience
4
Sunrise at Tybee Island beachDrive 20 minutes east, park at the pier, and watch the sun come up over the Atlantic with almost nobody around. Bring coffee, stay for breakfast at The Breakfast Club, and be back in town by 10am
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Bring comfortable walking shoes. The entire Historic District is best explored on foot, and the cobblestones on River Street will destroy anything flimsy
- ✓Make Mrs. Wilkes reservations (or arrive by 10:30am for the line) on your first day. It's the one restaurant that defines the city and it's only open for lunch, Monday through Friday
- ✓The humidity in summer is oppressive. Pack light fabrics, drink water constantly, and plan indoor activities (museums, restaurants, bars) for 1pm to 4pm when it peaks
“Walking the squares with a cocktail in hand at sunset, then doing a ghost tour through the same streets an hour later completely changed the mood. Savannah goes from charming to eerie in the most delicious way.”
Skip
- ✗Paula Deen's Lady & Sons: long wait, overpriced, and the food is generic Southern buffet. Mrs. Wilkes does the same concept authentically for half the price with twice the soul
- ✗River Street shops: mostly t-shirt and candy stores selling the same souvenirs. Walk it for the views but shop on Broughton Street or in Starland for anything worth keeping