What to do once you land inTokyoFind your bearings
Tokyo is the world's largest city that somehow feels like a collection of villages. Each neighborhood has its own personality, from Shibuya's neon chaos to Yanaka's temple-lined alleys. The food is the planet's best (more Michelin stars than any city), the trains run to the second, and the contrast between ancient shrines and robot restaurants never gets old. Go with a plan but leave room to wander.
Neighborhoods
Shinjuku — Neon towers, the busiest train station on Earth, Golden Gai's tiny bars, and KabukichÅ's late-night madness. Tokyo's beating heart
Shibuya — The famous crossing, department stores, and youth culture. Quieter back streets behind 109 have excellent ramen and curry shops
Asakusa — Old Tokyo with Senso-ji temple, nakamise shopping street, and traditional izakayas along Hoppy Street (beer alley)
Harajuku — Youth fashion capital with Takeshita Street's cosplay shops, Omotesando's tree-lined designer boutiques, and Meiji Jingu shrine hidden in a forest
Shimokitazawa — Tokyo's indie village with vintage clothing, record shops, tiny live music venues, and curry shops. What Williamsburg wishes it was
Best time to visit
Late March through April for cherry blossoms (sakura). October through November for fall colors and crisp weather. May and June before rainy season. Summer (July to August) is brutally hot and humid. Winter is cold but clear with fewer tourists.
Getting around
Get a Suica or Pasmo card (IC card) for all trains, subways, buses, and convenience store purchases. Tap and go everywhere
The Japan Rail Pass is worth it if you're doing day trips to Kamakura, Hakone, or other cities. For Tokyo-only, skip it and use IC card
Trains stop at midnight. Last trains vary by line (check Google Maps). After midnight, taxis or manga cafés (capsule sleeping) are your options
Google Maps is excellent for Tokyo transit. Set your departure time and it shows exact platform numbers and which car to board
Key areas
ShinjukuShibuyaAsakusaHarajukuTsukiji
Zero-dollar wins
1
Meiji Jingu shrineSerene forest shrine in Harajuku dedicated to Emperor Meiji. Free entry, towering torii gates, and a forested path that feels miles from the city
2
Senso-ji temple (Asakusa)Tokyo's oldest temple is free to enter. The thunder gate, incense cauldron, and Nakamise shopping street are iconic and always bustling
3
Shibuya CrossingStand in the middle of the world's busiest crossing or watch from the Starbucks above (buy a coffee). Peak chaos is Friday at 6pm
4
Yoyogi Park on SundaysFree park next to Meiji Jingu where rockabilly dancers, cosplayers, and musicians perform every weekend. Peak Tokyo weirdness
5
Yanaka neighborhood walkOld Tokyo atmosphere with temple cats, traditional shops, and Yanaka Cemetery's cherry tree path. Feels like the city 100 years ago
6
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observation deckFree 45th-floor views of the entire city including Mt. Fuji on clear days. Open until 11pm. Much better than paying for Tokyo Tower
7
Tsukiji Outer Market browsingThe outer market is free to wander with sample tastings everywhere. Fresh tamago (egg), tuna skewers, and strawberry mochi
Treat yourself
(we think it's worth it)
Sukiyabashi Jiro (Roppongi)$200 to $350
Jiro's son runs this location with shorter waits and the same legendary technique. Omakase sushi that justifies every yenteamLab Borderless (Azabudai Hills)$25 to $32
Digital art museum where rooms of light and color respond to your movement. Immersive, otherworldly, and unlike any museum you've visitedRyokan night at Hoshinoya Tokyo$400 to $700
Traditional Japanese inn experience in the city center. Tatami rooms, private onsen bath, kaiseki dinner. Japan in concentrated formRobot Restaurant show (Shinjuku)$40 to $55
Sensory overload of neon robots, taiko drums, and dancers in a basement theater. Completely absurd and totally Tokyo. Book online for discountThe legendary bites
The dishes this city perfected
Ichiran Ramen$7 to $10
Solo-dining ramen in individual booths where you customize everything via checklist. The tonkotsu broth is rich, porky, and exactly what you need at midnightTonkotsu ramen with extra-firm noodles and spicy red sauceTsukiji Outer Market stalls$3 to $14
Grab-and-go sushi, tamago on a stick, fresh uni, and grilled seafood skewers from dozens of stalls. Breakfast of championsMaguro (tuna) sashimi on rice from Sushi DaiTonkatsu Maisen (Omotesando)$12 to $20
The city's best deep-fried pork cutlet in a converted bathhouse. The kurobuta (black pork) set with cabbage and miso soup is artKurobuta rosu tonkatsu setAfuri Ramen (Ebisu)$7 to $10
Lighter yuzu shio (citrus salt) ramen that's refreshing rather than heavy. The polar opposite of Ichiran, equally addictiveYuzu shio ramen with chashu porkNakiryu (ÅŒtsuka)$7 to $10
Michelin-starred tantanmen ramen in a 10-seat shop. Line starts before opening. Possibly the best single bowl of noodles in TokyoTantanmen (sesame chili ramen)Gonpachi (Nishi-Azabu)$20 to $35
The restaurant that inspired Kill Bill's fight scene. Dramatic interior with excellent yakitori and soba on multiple floorsCharcoal-grilled yakitori platterWhere locals eat
Where residents actually go
7-Eleven onigiri$1 to $2
Not a joke. Japanese convenience store rice balls are genuinely excellent, fresh daily, and cost $1 to $1.40. Tuna mayo is the classicStanding soba shops (any station)$3 to $4
Slurp a bowl of hot soba or udon in 5 minutes for $3 at a station standing counter. Fuji Soba and Komoro are the reliable chainsHoppy Street izakayas (Asakusa)$3 to $10
Alley of tiny open-air bars serving yakitori, oden, and beer at rock-bottom prices. Point at what looks good on the grillOmoide Yokocho (Shinjuku)$5 to $14
Narrow alley of smoky yakitori stalls under the train tracks. Squeeze onto a stool, order chicken skin and beer, and soak in old Tokyo atmosphereGyukatsu Motomura (Shibuya)$9 to $12
Deep-fried beef cutlet cooked rare that you finish on a hot stone at your table. Line moves fast and it's worth every minuteGo off-script
1
Tsukiji Outer Market breakfastArrive at 6am and graze: tamago (sweet egg) on a stick, fresh uni from a shell, tuna sashimi on rice, and matcha. The best breakfast in Asia
2
teamLab BorderlessDigital art museum where infinite rooms of light respond to your presence. Book the first entry slot, wear white to reflect the projections, and lose yourself for 3 hours
3
Golden Gai bar hop (5 tiny bars)Six narrow alleys of 200+ bars, each seating 5 to 8 people. Cover charge is $3 to $7 per bar. Visit 5 in one night and talk to strangers at each
4
Shibuya Crossing at nightCome at 10pm on a Friday when the neon is full blast and the crowd is electric. Watch from the Shibuya Sky rooftop ($13) or the Mag's Park rooftop for free
5
Early-morning tuna auction (Toyosu Market)Watch the famous bluefin tuna auction from the viewing gallery at 5:30am. Book online weeks ahead. Surreal seeing a single fish sell for thousands of dollars
Insider intel + tourist traps
Tips
- ✓Cash is still king in many small restaurants, bars, and shops. Carry $67 to $134 at all times. 7-Eleven ATMs accept international cards with no fee
- ✓Bow slightly when entering shops and restaurants. Say 'sumimasen' (excuse me) to get attention and 'gochisousama' (thank you for the meal) when leaving a restaurant
- ✓Trains stop around midnight and don't resume until 5am. Plan your last train or budget for a taxi/manga café overnight
- ✓Don't tip. Ever. Not in restaurants, taxis, or hotels. It can be seen as rude. Service quality is already world-class because it's a point of professional pride
“Ate Michelin-star ramen for $8, drank whisky in a bar that seats 6 people, and watched the sunrise from Tsukiji with fresh tuna in hand. Tokyo rewired my brain.”
Skip
- ✗Tokyo Tower ($9 observation): the view isn't as good as the free Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku. Save the money
- ✗Kawaii Monster Café (closed and reopened): overpriced photo-op with mediocre food. Instagram bait with no substance. Explore Harajuku's Takeshita Street backstreets instead
- ✗Shibuya tourist information 'kimono experience' shops: $80 for a synthetic rental and rushed photos. If you want real kimono experience, go to Asakusa where it costs $30 and you keep it all day